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Clos Saint Jean |
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The Domaine was founded around 1900 by Edmond Tacussel. However, in 1910 “Clos Saint Jean” was actually created with the registering of the brand. The vineyard has expanded through the generations - in 1920 by Edmonds’ son, Leopold Tacussel, in 1930 by Edmond’s son-in-law Camille Maurel and in 1957 by his grandson Guy Maurel. When Guy passed away in 1982, his wife Jocelyne Maurel who gave up her teaching position, together with their two sons, Vincent and Pascal (great grandsons of Edmond), took over the management of the family domaine with some of the best situated vines in all of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, all in the area of La Crau. Jocelyne Maurel died in November 2003. In 2002, Philippe Cambie had been hired as consulting oenologist/viticulturist, and he is (as is well-known to readers of Robert Parker’s writings), one of the greatest oenologists of Chateauneuf. Up until early September, the year 2002 was one of the most promising vintages in recent times, but a disastrous flood ruined the vintage. The Maurels sold off the entire crop to negociants and made no wine. In 2003, the brothers and Mr. Cambie were ready and nailed down the 2003 vintage to perfection. What they did was a little counter-intuitive (following the calamity of 2002) and took enormous courage — they waited, and waited, to pick. Even though 2003 was a hot year, with high sugars early on, they did not succumb to the temptation to pick the crop before it might rain, and instead held off. They started picking in late September, when virtually everyone else had finished. The wines all display supreme physiological and phenolic ripeness, without notes of surmaturity or over-ripeness. They are all deeply colored, rich and profound, even at an early stage. There are four cuvees: Clos St. Jean Vieilles Vignes: unlike many domaines in Chateauneuf, which make “super cuvees” at the expense of the classic cuvee, the Maurels and Mr. Cambie have selected superb fruit for the Clos St. Jean classic—75% old-vines Grenache (younger Grenache being sold off to negociants), 15% Syrah, 4% Mourvedre, 3% old-vines Cinsault, 2% Vaccareze and 1% Muscardin. They also have a Clos St. Jean Blanc which consists of 1/3 Grenache, 1/3 Clairette and 1/3 Roussane. Combe des Fous (Hill of Fools): comes from a specific parcel on Crau that long ago was considered too difficult to work, but the Maurels’ great grand-father was “fool” enough to think he could succeed here. As one can see in this wine, the Grenache from this old-vine parcel (60%) is superbly rich and complex. The balance of this cuvee is the Maurels’ best Syrah aged in barrique (20%), rich Cinsault (10%) and Vaccareze (10%). Deus Ex-Machina: 60% of centenaire (and older) Grenache vines and 40% of superb, low-yielding Mourvedre. Sanctus Sanctorum : new cuvee of 100% vieux grenache en demi-muid. According to the Robert Parker’s February 2007 review of Clos Saint-Jean, “2003 marked a breakthrough vintage for Clos Saint-Jean, and that has been followed by some of the finest wines of 2004 and blockbusters again in 2005”. 2004 is a vintage of great balance that will, with special efforts under Philippe’s counsel, prove to be exceptional. 2005 is a great vintage requiring patience. 2006 is a superb vintage, again with great balance, having the power of 2005 and the balance of 2004. |