A great discovery for us, because no French
journalists nor any yet in the U.S., have reviewed Mas de la Devčze,
but this will change. That is assuming that Pierre Gagnaire, Taillevent,
Le Meurice, L’Astrance, Marc Veyrat, all Three-Star restaurants, and my humble palate, know
superb wines when we taste them.
Olivier Bernstein
came to wine by his passion, not from family vineyards. His first love was
Burgundy, and there he visited, learned from, and worked for some of the best,
including a “stage” with Henri Jayer.
After the 2002 harvest, he acquired a Domaine in the
Roussillon, between Tautavel and the Mas Amiel and, by the way, just about
mid-point between Avignon and the Priorat in Spain, in the northern part of old
Catalonia. it is situated on a low plateau of argilo-calcaire with schist-veins called the Mas de la Devčze
(translates as high fertile plain). There were lots of old vines Grenache,
some Carignan, and recent plantings of Syrah. After only his second
vintage, the wines were on the lists of the five the Three-Stars restaurants
mentioned.
There are several cuvées:
The Sarabande is a very well-made value that resembles a
top-flight Rhone. It is equal parts Syrah, Carignan and Grenache.
The La Devčze "66" is 70% old vines Grenache, 20% Syrah
and 10% very old vines Carignan (which here resemble Carignan of the Priorat). Then there is the old vines "cru" named Mas de la Devčze.
It too is 70% old-vine Grenache, and then 30% Syrah, aged half in barrique (older) and
half concrete.
There will be 2 special cuvées -
Pandora is pure 100 plus year old vines Grenache; Astrée is from a
small parcel of Syrah that yields a mere 9 hl/ha.
It is aged in new barrique. For both, the first vintage is 2005 and they
will be bottled late in 2007 . There will be only 150 cases
made of each cuvée.
Technical information available:
Mas de
la Deveze Rose 2006
66 2005 same as 2004 vintage below
Sarabande Red and Sarabande Rose 2005
66 2004, Mas de la Deveze Red
04, Mas de la Deveze White 05