"In the top echelon of the world's finest Pinot Noir producers."*
Along with The Domaine Leroy, Bernard Dugat makes the most vin de garde
Pinot Noir in the world. It is truly a mistake to drink his Villages
wines, on up through the Crus, before they have been in bottle five
years after the vintage (the Bourgogne, maybe three). He and his charming
wife, Jocelyne Py, thus Domaine Dugat-Py, work extremely hard in the
vines (theirs are some of the most beautifully tended in all of Burgundy),
cutting them back in order to lower yields and extract more from the
soil. Bernard’s wines are so intense because they are so concentrated
from the juice that goes into the wine. That Bernard is a genius in
vinifying Pinot Noir doesn’t hurt either.
The Dugats live on the tiny Rue Planteligone, at the top of the village
of Gevrey, not far from the church**. Just outside their back door are
50 year old vines that make the heart of the cuvee Coeur du Roi (if
you will pardon the pun). Another third of this cuvee is from 90+ year
old vines in a parcel called Combe Dessous, lying just below the Premier
Cru Combes aux Moines. In 1997 and 1998 there was so little Premier
Cru Petite Chapelle that Bernard could not make a barrel, so it too
went into 1er Cru (as did the Clos Fonteny). It’s a big wine. So is
the Lavaux St. Jacques, but it exists in such miniscule quantities as
to be almost cruel. The Charmes vines are well situated across the path
from Chambertin, and the charming quality of Charmes balances the super-masculine
quality present in all of Bernard’s wines. A beauty. The vines in the
Mazi parcel, are over 55 years of age. Mazi makes one of the most full-bodied
of all the Grand Crus, and this has that quality, but also a marvelous
character of ripe wild blueberries, spice, and forest-floor scents that
makes it inimitable. Bernard has recently added a tiny parcel of Chambertin
to complete his repertoire. A review of the 1998s can be found in Issue
129 of The Wine Advocate on page 36.
*Quoted from Pierre Rovani, The Wine Advocate, Issue III.
**Their cave is cellar of a monastery dating back to the 11th century
(before the crusades).
From Le Classement, 2000 Revue du Vin de France
"This small artisan domaine has hoisted itself in the course
of a few years to the very summit of the Burgundy hierarchy. All those
who have had the good fortune to taste the sumptuous 1993's and astonishing
1994's, and the fabulous 1995's and 1996's know that this property has
become without a doubt the most fascinating one in its commune. His
simple cuvee Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Coeur de Roi surpasses
in intensity of matter and in the sensuality of its texture most Grands
Crus (of other domaines). As to his other wines, one needs to drink
them to believe them. Such profundity of color, such majesty of manner
are only explained by exceptional grapes produced by the family's fastidious
selection of Pinot Noirs that would make technicians who had scorned
them blush with shame. The very small volume produced as well as the
still extremely reasonable prices, however, prohibits the domaine from
taking on new customers. One needs to take one's chance with a hopefully
more abundant future vintage."
From Le Classement 2000, Revue du Vin de France:
"We were so dazzled by the last vintages of this domaine that
we have accorded the third star more quickly than we are accustomed
to do. How can one pass in silence by these wines, amongst the most
sublime of our epoch, vinified in this small cellar by a vigneron in
a class by himself, who comports himself modestly and is marvelously
seconded by his wife. This type of Burgundy we have longed for over
the last two exasperating decades of the 70’s and 80’s where for the
most part the great vineyards had lost their sense of honor. These dream
wines, Bernard Dugat has vinified for us all, in quantities incredibly
miniscule but in sufficient amounts to leave their grand mark behind
them. Their robe is indescribable; of a blue-black that resembles the
great Hermitages; the amplitude of their flesh, their fabulous velvetiness
of texture, recall wines from the legendary vintages of 1945, 1947 or
1959 without any of the defects of those vintages. Never in the past
thirty years have we found an expression of terroirs of Gevrey so powerful,
unless perhaps Chez Leroy which by chance is supplied regularly by Dugat.
To arrive at this result, Bernard Dugat puts all of his efforts in the
working of his vines, and those who would wish to one day equal him
would do well to cast an eye over his vines, especially in the month
of August when the grapes profit most from the sun".
From Le Classement, 1999 Revue du Vin de France
"This small artisan domaine has hoisted itself in the course
of a few years to the very summit of the Burgundy hierarchy. All those
who have had the good fortune to taste the sumptuous 1993’s and astonishing
1994’s, and the fabulous 1995’s and 1996’s know that this property has
become without a doubt the most fascinating one in its commune. His
simple cuvee Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Coeur de Roi surpasses
in intensity of matter and in the sensuality of its texture most Grands
Crus (of other domaines). As to his other wines, one needs to drink
them to believe them. Such profundity of color, such majesty of manner
are only explained by exceptional grapes produced by the family’s fastidious
selection of Pinot Noirs that would make technicians who had scorned
them blush with shame. The very small volume produced as well as the
still extremely reasonable prices, however, prohibits the domaine from
taking on new customers. One needs to take one’s chance with a hopefully
more abundant future vintage."