The "Fenouillède" as a wine region (and state of mind) has taken its name from
the villages of St. Paul de Fenouillet and St. Martin de Fenouillet, near the
town and appellation of Maury (Fenouil is the French word for fennel). It is
beautiful countryside, with the main vineyards being along the long valley that
runs from St. Paul de Fenouillet to Tautavel. In its hills sits St. Martin de
Fenouillet (population 38, at last count). Here lives a great and enthusiastic
winemaker – Eric Laguerre. Eric does not walk from place to place –he runs – so
intense is his pleasure in what he does. He began with an apprenticeship with
Gérard Gauby. There he gained an appreciation for bio-dynamic techniques. In St.
Martin he grows Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and Cabernet for reds, Roussane,
Macabeu, Grenache Gris, for white.
His wines have great concentration, balance, texture. The
reds, (bottled unfiltered) are big (over 14% natural) but not heavy. The white
is a marvel combining the purity and "cut" of fine Chablis with the weight and
flavors of a southern Rhône.
